Atelier Archive: The Peony Pavilion

FUN FACT: Despite releasing two collections since 2018 as the Designer Maker of After Midnight, I am a print design graduate!

So, if I'm a print designer, why am I only releasing solids? This is a good AND legit question! In short, it's pretty expensive to have custom fabric printed in the UK and some companies also have minimum orders so until I feel my indie brand has enough stability, it will probably be on the back burner for the foreseeable future.

HOWEVER! Just because I'm not making and releasing them, doesn't mean that I'm not working on designs! Behold, in the way Haenuli had a 'Design Graveyard', I have what I like to call the 'Atelier Archive' which is basically a folder of sketches/ illustrations/ patterns/ fashion illustrations/ things I have worked on to different levels, but have not made it onto fabric... yet!

Today I want to share a design that I worked on last year. 
Funnily enough, what triggered this was a pair of mint and gold Ruby Shoos! I didn't need them but they were pretty and I thought maaaybe I could wear them to Love From the North (this did not happen...) if I could make a dress that would go with them! At this point I was already on my Hanfu high so naturally, I decided I wanted to make something with classical Chinese influences. 

I asked myself: 'what print can I make that would fit that theme and go with the colours of those shoes?' and apparently, 'peonies!' was the answer! I love peonies so did I do some shoehorning? Probably? But anyway, off I went to find some references (including a Mooncake tin!) and got drawing in Photoshop!

Using these elements I made a delicate repeat pattern which would go all over the fabric because just a placement or even border print on a solid background is stark and boring.

After the repeat pattern, I built a border pattern using the same elements to keep it all tightly knitted together playing with scale and opacity.

What would jazz this up even more you ask? A gradient! 
I also made an alternative version with a placement print just to see what it would look like. It's not as striking as I would like (perhaps with less going on in the background?) so I went with the border print and moved onto visualising it on a dress.

Behold, my final mock-up! While I was on a Hanfu high, I wasn't that high, instead letting the print and details (the white block at the chest and the bows with tassels) gently nod to the classical Chinese inspiration. 

Unfortunately, The Peony Pavilion never made it past this stage. Will it some day? No one knows!

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Now I can't speak for all print designers but hopefully my process was a interesting read for some of you? People easily spend 3 digits on brand prints but would you be will as willing to stretch your budget in that direction for an indie brand? 

- Part Time 小姐

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